9.2.06

Léon

Como só amanhã teremos uma grande prova de vinhos para comentar, aproveito aqui a parte que contribui no foro de leitores do site da Jancis Robinson, numa discussão sobre biodinâmicos. Me empolguei e acabei faznedo um mini guia portátil de Léon, que ela gentilmente classificou de "cheio de atmosfera". Fiquei inchado de vaidade como um baiacu, assim que lá vai:

"Since last year's forum at Vic (in which we tasted with Ricardo Palacios and Joly himself - very funny man, indeed, mesmerizing - some "anthroposophic wines": Jacques Selosse, Coulée de Serrant, Moncerbal, Gramenon , Derain , Dominio de Atauta...)
I am planning a visit to Villafranca del Bierzo, and tried twice to get there but on both occasions it flopped (it's so far north, so difficult to reach without a car...). In March I reached León and talked with Ricardo by phone. He was waiting me, but there is one single daily bus between León and Villafranca del Bierzo, and it takes four hours to accomplish the 200 km. I had to abort the mission and return to planet earth. Last November en route to León again, I had my scheduled changed to meet that very polite man from Vega Sicilia Mr Alvarez, to visit their Pintía operation in Toro, an invitation impossible to let go, ça va sans dire. When this finally arrived Ricardo had some problems in Madrid and couldn't return from the La Guia tasting. I spent a wonderful weekend in León, just resting in that charming Castillian city.

I do recommend a visit, the most beautiful cathedral in Spain, except Cordoba, plus some so nice plazuelas, alleys, a Gothic quarter poetically called Barrio Humedo, a place with astonishing aplomb as for what it is: a centre for an empire that is not there, a void, curious place. There is a one Michelin star restaurant called Vivaldi, just average, but one of those reliable old places of ever, where you can eat a decent salad of fresh asparagus plus some grilled sweetbreads and an almond tart, called Casa Pozo and of course the impressive Parador (that I could describe, quoting you in reverse, as Vega Sicilia in stone).

I drank some interesting wines: Luna Beberide that is also Mencía and from Mariano Garcia (? I am not sure and Aalto , Quinta Quietud and Bembibre. I don't know were my notes are but I know I liked Aalto and not the others, and didn't visit the each time more unreachable vineyard. I've tasted the other wines in Barcelona with Quim Vila ( Pétalos, Corullón, San Martin, Las Lamas...).

Coincidentally Mistral [a major, family-run Brazilian fine wine importer] will present the new wines they are importing next Friday, and among them Palacios Remondo and Petalos del Bierzo and Corullon. Can't wait to read your account on Spain. I like the place more and more, if it's possible to love it more than I already do. Hope not to damage your language too much but I have to work at night because it's 34 degrees C and my brain is roasted".